The Japanese whisky industry has grappled with an identity crisis for years, but new labeling standards set to take effect in 2024 aim to clarify what can be labeled as Japanese whisky. These regulations stipulate that the spirit must be entirely produced in Japan, from fermentation to bottling, and aged for a minimum of three years. While traditional single malts and blends remain popular, some distillers are exploring older Japanese spirits traditions like shochu and awamori, resulting in unique and flavorful whiskies. Here are the top picks in the 2023 Men's Journal Spirits Awards, which exemplify the complexity and versatility that Japanese whisky offers, whether enjoyed neat, on the rocks, or in cocktails. Shop Japanese Whiskies!
Yamazaki 12-Year is a celebrated offering from Japan's oldest malt whisky distillery, the Yamazaki Distillery. Its meticulous aging process involves various cask types, including American, Spanish, and mizunara oak. Described by Men's Journal contributor Austa Somvichian-Clausen as having an amber hue, it boasts a smooth, honeyed sweetness with prominent notes of red berries, dried apricots, and a hint of mizunara oak spice. Kate Boushel, beverage director of Atwater Cocktail Club, favors Yamazaki 12-Year in a classic Japanese highball, where its warm, nutty, and buttery palate pairs perfectly with the soda's light salinity, evolving into a long, lightly spiced ginger finish accentuated by the carbonation. Buy it now!
Introduced in 2012, this signature grain whisky is a testament to the artistry of Japanese whisky. Crafted predominantly from corn and distilled in a Coffey still, the spirit undergoes maturation in a variety of old casks, including re-filled, remade, and re-charred casks made from American oak. This meticulous process imparts the sweet and mellow flavors characteristic of Coffey distillates. The result is a unique expression that showcases the finesse and innovation synonymous with Japanese whisky craftsmanship. Buy it now for $75.99.
The name "Toki" in Japanese translates to "time," and Suntory's Toki Whisky pays homage to this concept. It is a meticulous blend of whiskies with varying ages sourced from Suntory's three primary distilleries – Hakushu, Yamazaki, and Chita. By combining Hakushu's American white oak cask malt whisky with Chita's robust grain whisky and select Yamazaki malts, Toki achieves a smooth taste and vibrant character. With a proof of 86, this whisky offers a sensory journey, presenting notes of basil, green apple, honey on the nose, followed by flavors of grapefruit, green grapes, peppermint, and thyme on the palate. The finish is subtly sweet and spicy, featuring hints of vanilla oak, white pepper, and ginger. Buy it now for $43.99.
Hibiki Harmony, from the house of Suntory, is a testament to the artistry of Japanese whisky blending. This exquisite blend brings together select malts and grains, resulting in a whisky that is both smooth and subtly sweet, making it an impeccable choice for a highball. Hibiki Harmony is characterized by a symphony of flavors that include the richness of honey, the zesty brightness of orange peel, and the luxurious smoothness of white chocolate. These flavors come together to create an elegant whisky that embodies the delicate balance and precision for which Japanese whisky is renowned. Buy it now!
In the realm of Japanese whisky, the term "pure malt" can be somewhat misleading, as it actually denotes a blend of single malt whiskies sourced from different distilleries. However, major producers like Nikka and Suntory have used this term to describe blends combining single malts from their own distilleries. Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt represents such a blend, incorporating single malts from Nikka's Yoichi and Miyagikyo distilleries. Recently updated in November 2020, this blend accentuates sherry cask notes while also showcasing smokiness from the Yoichi component, all while maintaining its characteristic elegance and balance. Notably, Taketsuru is one of the rare "pure malts" that is entirely produced in Japan, even amidst new Japanese whisky regulations. Head mixologist Nicolas O'Connor from Apotheke NoMad praises Taketsuru Pure Malt for its boldness, likening its flavor profile to Scotch with prominent tobacco and smoke notes, finishing with a savory, almost bitter quality. While O'Connor typically enjoys Taketsuru neat or on the rocks, its robust flavor also makes it suitable for balancing other strong flavors in cocktails such as Blood and Sand or Rob Roy. Buy it now!
Dating back to 1888, White Oak holds the distinction of being Japan's oldest distillery, a hidden treasure in the realm of Japanese whisky. Originally renowned for sake production, the company secured Japan's inaugural whisky-making license in 1919, preceding industry giants like Suntory. The Akashi expression epitomizes the distillery's uniqueness, blending 70 percent corn grain with 30 percent malted barley, lightly peated and aged for a minimum of three years in ex-bourbon barrels before a final flourish in sherry casks. Initially evoking bourbon-esque notes of caramel corn and coconut shell, Akashi takes an intriguing turn with the savory influence of sherry, unveiling a subtle smoky peat. Trevor Langer, head bartender at Jac's on Bond in New York, NY, lauds Akashi White Oak as his top pick among Japanese whiskies, citing its exceptional taste, accessibility, price point, and versatility as factors contributing to its acclaim. Buy it now!
Shibui, an independent bottler and blender, distinguishes its line of rice-based whiskies as "single grain," procured from various distilleries. Among its offerings, the 18-Year-Old Sherry Cask Single Grain hails from Kumesen Distillery, crafted from indica long-grain rice and aged in fino and manzanilla sherry casks. This aging imparts nutty nuances, subtle spice, and vibrant fruit aromas and flavors to the whisky. Utilizing indigenous Okinawan black koji, a crucial component in awamori production, along with Shibui's other single-grain whiskies, further enhances their distinct character and regional authenticity. Buy it now!
The latest addition to the U.S. koji whisky scene, this iteration departs from rice to barley as its base ingredient, undergoing an eight-year aging process. Named after Jokichi Takamine, a pioneering scientist and distiller renowned for introducing koji to American whiskey production in the 19th century. Despite its modest 40 percent alcohol by volume, Takamine 8-Year exhibits a full-bodied texture and a flavor profile characterized by notes of chestnuts, clementine, and subtle yet invigorating spice. Its well-rounded and harmonious composition renders it irresistibly smooth and effortlessly enjoyable. Buy it now!
In the realm of Japanese whisky, Kaiyo stands out with its unconventional approach. Instead of owning a distillery, Kaiyo employs a distinctive method known as "ocean maturation." Initially crafted and aged in Japan, the whisky embarks on a maritime voyage, exposed to the sea air and elements aboard a ship, further enhancing its maturation process. The Cask Strength Mizunara Oak expression exemplifies this technique, highlighting the influence of rare mizunara oak renowned for its sweet-and-spicy essence. Anticipate aromas of sandalwood, coconut, fruit, and vanilla, leading to a palate rich with layers of toffee, velvety malt, and dark chocolate. The cask strength intensifies these flavors, while maintaining a harmonious complexity. Buy it now!
Kikori Whisky, led by founder Soh Woods, stands out as a woman- and Asian-American owned brand that not only delivers exceptional quality but also actively contributes to the AAPI community. Crafted from locally grown rice and pristine water from Kumamoto, Japan, Kikori's signature expression undergoes aging in a combination of American oak, French limousin oak, and sherry casks, resulting in a smooth and floral flavor profile. Beyond its superb spirits, Kikori strives to elevate Asian ingredients in cocktail culture and support mental health initiatives through partnerships and donations, making it a standout choice for both discerning drinkers and socially conscious consumers. Buy it now!
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